Old 12-29-2005, 16:40   #61
PiterM
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OK, let me show you one of my ideas, which applies to hollow-handle knives I use (by Chris Reeve, MK.VI in this case). As you can see that was really WINTER when I've taken these shots last year (I stopped using Maxpedition mid of this year). Snow, snow, snow… so if it works in these conditions it must work also in the middle of summer. BTW, A2 holds the edge very well even in 20 C below zero. Checked!

First of all the content of the handle... I ALWAYS carry two pieces of adhesive bandage in the handle of my one-piecer(s). I prefer my knives to be sharp so it’s always good to be prepared for the unlucky moment. Than I usually carry there about foot-and-a-half of paracord, which I use as a lanyard when chopping. And I carry there also two small sharpening sticks (coarse and fine) which you can find in Gatco pocket sharpener. Each of them is covered in paracord outer “tubing” for protection... it fits perfectly!

OK, back to field sharpening. You can imagine that sharpening knife of this size on such a small hand-held sharpening stick is neither convenient nor safe. However with your knife you can create easily a VERY SAFE sharpener that is more than enough to restore the edge in the field... well under 3 minutes! Just take a 3/4 inch stick, whittle a bit to have a flat area of 0,5 x 3 inches. Than cut a shallow, 2-inch “V” groove using tip of your blade, just like that one in the picture

Than put the stick in the groove... and… start sharpening (and follow with fine rod if you like). Just an idea... works for me.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg crk_sharp_2.jpg (78.9 KB, 222 views)
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File Type: jpg crk_sharp_4.jpg (90.1 KB, 241 views)

Last edited by PiterM; 12-29-2005 at 16:45.
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Old 12-30-2005, 09:53   #62
Bill Harsey
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Piter,
Very interesting field craft on the sharpener. Thank you for showing us the pictures!

I'm going to have to try that because I always hand hold the small ceramic rods but I think you can get more work done your way. Just don't let your knife get so dull you can't carve the wood.
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Old 06-12-2006, 13:25   #63
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Tantos?

Mr Harsey,

What is the best way to sharpen a tanto style blade? The junction of the 2 blade angles always seem to be an issue.

In the past I have treated it like 2 different knives. Sharpening the main edge and if needed (rarely) the short side. Depending on the size of the stone determined whether I moved the knife or the stone. I would finish with crock sticks.

I have a new knife (T2) and I want to start it out right.

Thanks for your assistance,
Mud Puppy
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Old 06-12-2006, 16:50   #64
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Piter,

Nice idea.
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Old 06-12-2006, 19:50   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mud Puppy
Mr Harsey,

In the past I have treated it like 2 different knives. Sharpening the main edge and if needed (rarely) the short side. Depending on the size of the stone determined whether I moved the knife or the stone. I would finish with crock sticks.

Mud Puppy
Mud Puppy,
That's exactly how I do it, treating it like two distinct blades when it comes to the geometry of the sharpening.
This is also exactly how the swordmakers of Japan did and continue to do.

Try not using the crock sticks and take advantage of the fine tooth left from the sharpening stone. This will greatly increase your edge endurance.

The CPM S-30V doesn't generate quite as much of a "wire edge' as other steels and will come up sharper with less work (ok, fewer steps...) than other steels.
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Old 07-19-2006, 08:54   #66
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What thoughts do you guys have on the MOD CQD knives?
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Old 07-19-2006, 09:14   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STRAC
What thoughts do you guys have on the MOD CQD knives?
Is this a sharpening question?
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Old 07-20-2006, 08:58   #68
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Some people have told me about stropping a knife on cardboard with some sort of a polishing compound as opposed to using a stone or ceramic sticks.

Mr. Harsey, does that sound like something that would work or is the stropping more for a quick hone of an edge versus actually sharpening a blade?


It seems the cardboard would be less bulky and obviously lighter than a stone, which would be great, since I'm a nasty leg.

thanks,

Rob
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Old 07-20-2006, 14:50   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob_0811
Some people have told me about stropping a knife on cardboard with some sort of a polishing compound as opposed to using a stone or ceramic sticks.

Mr. Harsey, does that sound like something that would work or is the stropping more for a quick hone of an edge versus actually sharpening a blade?


It seems the cardboard would be less bulky and obviously lighter than a stone, which would be great, since I'm a nasty leg.

thanks,

Rob
Rob,
Stropping is a way to fine finish a blade by removing the burr from previous correctly done sharpening steps.
Then stropping with the very fine grits called stropping compound can be used to maintain that edge until it's time for the blade to be returned to the stones.

The most common use for this type of sharpening is/was the straight razor which responds to this treatment because the edge is so thin there is very little steel to remove.
Stropping is also used to fine finish wood working tools like chisels and planer blades to the point that the finished cut is smoother than anything sanding good produce.
The best razors and wood working tools share one thing in common, a low alloy high carbon steel of fine grain that is very hard. The hardness of these steels aids in the ability of the strop to do it's work because the "wire edge' abrades or polishes off clean.
These steels in the heat treated condition they come in are too brittle for hard field use.

In any given blade steel, the "stropped" or polished edge has surprisingly short cutting endurance and gives up easy in difficult materials. Once the fine polished edge is "wiped off" the knife quits cutting well in anything.

I do know of manufacturers who use a series of cardboard "grinding wheels" loaded with fine abrasive compounds (high speed spinning strops) for final sharpening but the edges I describe how to do here will long outlast them in the field.

Last edited by Bill Harsey; 07-20-2006 at 17:56.
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Old 07-20-2006, 15:54   #70
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More Stropping...

Stropping will not restore a blade that has been used hard resulting in dings, micro chips and flat spots on the edge.

Fine ceramic rods and sticks will somewhat keep an edge straightened out and do some very fine abrading at the same time. Butchers call this "standing the edge up" and they use a steel for this use, chefs do the same thing but again this applies to knives ground very thin made of steels that are not as tough or hard as the modern steels we use in tactical blades.


The reason for using the toughest steels possible in tactical knives is that these things have to be built for many emergency uses that may include cutting other metals like sheet, wire or banding straps and prying with the users full strength to try and break stuff.
To make knives that hold up to this type of work, they have to also be just a little thicker at the edge and this makes a difference in how we sharpen them.

Your pocket knife will probably be kept with a finer edge than your tactical or field fixed blade.

Try the stropping and tell us how it works.
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Old 07-20-2006, 16:40   #71
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I have received my stone from True Grit today, now the big important part, how to keep my fingers attached to my hand, while making a blade sharp.

I have been enjoying this thread, I have lots of "Sharpening aids" but they are seem to work so so. I had a friend teach me how to sharpen, he was a Barber before he enlisted, and KIA in 17 Sept '69, and actually succeeded to doing so. But over time, I forgotten, and reading this thread has helped me to remember, I hope.. So in a few days, If I am typing a Job well done, you will know I have succeeded. If my daughter types it, well......... you know...
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Old 07-21-2006, 10:31   #72
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Hollis,
Good news on the bench stone.

Learning what a good edge looks like when done on the bench stone helps us understand what it has to look like upon completion when using the field expedient sharpening rigs.
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Old 09-02-2006, 12:01   #73
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Safe Handling of Sharp Tools...

...is a frame of mind whenever the knife is in your hand.

Yes I'm stating the obvious and will continue, be careful when handling these knives no matter what the edge condition. Whoever coined the phrase "a dull knife will cut you worse than a sharp one" hasn't been cut with something really sharp.

In my work as a knifemaker I learned how to make knives very sharp before learning how to handle very sharp knives. I've been cut a few times, couple of those resulted in scheduled surgical procedures to re-attach tendons. Avoid this if possible. Much down time involved.

Using sharp edged tools in hard use and emergency situations requires habits learned before you get there, just like firearms handling. The best advice I have is:

Think at all times where the blade is going to go when you apply the horsepower to the cut.

Watch and Think about your holding hand and arm, this is what will probably get hurt first if the blade breaks thru or slips off what your cutting. Do NOT cut toward your hand or body no matter how much control you think you've got. Murphy likes knives too.

Try and cut tough materials, if possible, on some kind of surface rather than up in the air. You have more control this way.

If the knife isn't cutting in something very tough, Think before using more horsepower. That instant of thinking might keep you from getting cut.

Keep your folding knives cleaned out, especially in and around the locking mechanisms. Grit, pocket lint, organic debris, sand, mud and stuff can all build up over time and cause a lock to not lock the blade in the full open position.

Most of this cleaning can be done with a toothpick or sliver of wood. It's not hard to do but please do it.

Final note, keep some good band aids around anyway.
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Old 09-02-2006, 12:05   #74
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Great advice, Bill.

Used any of the DermaBond yet?

TR
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Old 09-02-2006, 12:12   #75
Bill Harsey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Reaper
Great advice, Bill.

Used any of the DermaBond yet?

TR
Thanks and not yet but I keep it close by all the time in my cut kit which includes a one hand use tourniquet provided by Swatsurgeon
(oh ye of little faith, or really smart).
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