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Old 12-01-2016, 02:55   #1
Box
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Hunting with a Flintlock

I have never owned any type of muzzle loading rifle. I am considering going to a relatives property in Pennsylvania this year during flintlock season so I am in need of a crash course in flintlock hunting. They have been bugging me to come visit for a long time and they are using deer season as the 'bait' to get me to visit...

It is a great excuse for me to buy a new gun because I don't have a flintlock rifle but I don't know what to buy or what little tricks of the trade I may need to be aware of. Even if I don't shoot Bambi's parents this year, I am looking forward to black powder hunting as a new thing since I no longer need to worry about being deployed during hunting season.

Any advice is welcome.
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Old 12-01-2016, 03:53   #2
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Billy, I shoot / have a few nice flintlocks and yes there is 'tech' to getting a good spark and ignition.
[IMG]http:s216.photobucket.com/user/prb51/media/IMG_1189_zpsd41faf0d.jpg.html][/URL][/IMG]

Look up some vids on flint knapping (if you make multiple shots) but I usually get about 20 rounds off before I have to trim a flint (still in the hammer) by chipping the tip.

This pic is proper placement...almost touching the Frizen at 1/2 cock...altho each action has it's own little quirks.

I suggest shooting quite a bit to work up loads/accuracy and get confidence in your ignition....once you get the feel ignition is close to 100%.

Feel free to msg me with anything.....this is all I shoot for fun anymore...I have 2 hand made pre revolution era .54's...just fun.
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Old 12-01-2016, 04:12   #3
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An actual flintlock, or did you mean just a black powder rifle?

Here's a link to some flintlocks on Midway if it's the former:

Midway USA Flintlocks for sale

I've never hunted using a flintlock, but I imagine it's similar to a regular smokepole. Modern inline muzzleloaders are easier to shoot, clean, and maintain, so keep that in mind. The tools you'll need are as follows, and links to see what they are. These are just what I use/have used, you can play around with all sorts of stuff, but here's the basics:

Inline rifle: I'd use a CVA Optima or Thompson Center Link

Bullet starter and ramrod: The rifles usually come with their own ramrod Link

Powder: Up to you, but I use Pyrodex pellets or 777 Pellets Link

Bullets: Hornady sabots have worked better for me than Powerbelts. It's up to you to get the high speed sabot-on-a-stick which makes loading faster Link

209 Primers Link

Speed loaders: Link

Cleaning gear: Dawn dish soap, hot water, rod, brush, patches, and finish it off with a CLP laden patch, followed by 3 dry patches to ensure you get the oil out while still leaving the bore protected.

Breech plug grease: Sold at most sporting goods stores

Ammo can/Dry box To store your goodies

Here's a tip also, when you get your rifle, after you clean it the first time, drop the ramrod into your gun and wrap a piece of 100mph tape or etch a line on the ramrod where the exposed rod meets the muzzle. This will help you determine whether the rifle is loaded or not.

Then, when you get to a range/shooting spot, load the rifle, ensure the bullet is firmly seated, then tape/etch where the rod meets the muzzle so you know what right looks like. This is beneficial especially when reloading hastily to drop another deer, or in case you missed and the bewildered critter is still standing there for another try.

A trick I learned from my stepdad to make sure the bullet is properly seated, is to get the ramrod to bounce. It's hard for me to articulate, but you ram/drop the rod into the barrel several times at a good rate of speed after you THINK the bullet is seated, but not fast enough to damage the sabot tip. You start with the rod halfway down the barrel, then use the rod like you'd throw a dart is the best way I can describe it.

I'd also like to recommend that when you're done hunting for the day, discharge the rifle. I hope this helps a little, and I'm sure as I was typing this, someone more experienced than me chimed in. Good hunting!

***ETA***: I just read PA's hunting guide, and found that they actually have a separate Flintlock season...

The way you stated "black powder" later in your post led me to believe you were using the term "flintlock" in lieu of "muzzleloader". Mea culpa!

Some of the info I posted is still relevant however
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Old 12-01-2016, 04:57   #4
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I have hunted deer (no luck) and hogs (some luck) in the Everglades and South Florida's wildlife preserves, during BLACK POWDER season.. I carried a T/C Renegade .54 cal and a Lyman .54 cal pistol. But not flint, as the humidity is almost to much for black powder,, (lost a beautiful 8 point to an early morning mist, FTF, re-capped, FTF, re-capped, FTF,, I gave up),, It would be near impossible for flint.

I would suggest you work with your laws and barrow one of their smoke poles this first time out.. Get mucho practice shooting. The delay in ignition can be a real eye opener.. Loading not so much..

Good Luck..
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Old 12-01-2016, 05:36   #5
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I think you mean Blackpowder in general rather than Flintlock in particular. I can't imagine hunting with Flintlock unless you enjoy cold damp morning with lots of sparks and little BOOM.

As for Blackpowder hunting, you can go with a modern BP rifle with a scope that shoots Sabots, and is loaded with Pyrodex instead of actual black powder. New Thompson Center, CVA, or Traditions rifles are popular.

Or you can go old school with a historic reproduction like the Thompson Center, Lyman, or Traditions Hawken rifles or any flavor of cap ignited Kentucky or Pennsylvania rifles.

There are tons of options.
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Old 12-01-2016, 05:39   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Streck-Fu View Post
I think you mean Blackpowder in general rather than Flintlock in particular. I can't imagine hunting with Flintlock unless you enjoy cold damp morning with lots of sparks and little BOOM.

As for Blackpowder hunting, you can go with a modern BP rifle with a scope that shoots Sabots, and is loaded with Pyrodex instead of actual black powder. New Thompson Center, CVA, or Traditions rifles are popular.

Or you can go old school with a historic reproduction like the Thompson Center, Lyman, or Traditions Hawken rifles or any flavor of cap ignited Kentucky or Pennsylvania rifles.

There are tons of options.
Hey, that 'little boom' comes from not understanding your medium.....cap guns are for kids
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Old 12-01-2016, 07:23   #7
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The hunting season where I am going is strictly flintlock. To keep it simple I am going to shoot little metal balls no further than about 75 yards.
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Old 12-01-2016, 07:57   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy L-bach View Post
The hunting season where I am going is strictly flintlock. To keep it simple I am going to shoot little metal balls no further than about 75 yards.
Hah... Simplified...yes

You'll just ned to understand the peculiarities of the piece you go with. Flint coice, how it sits in the jaws, striking the frizzen, etc. Also patching thw ball for consistency in shot placement.

I enjoy flintlocks greatly. A bit massochistic at times when it decides to go stupid but it's a challenge I enjoy a great deal.

If you're headed for south-central PA hit me with a PM
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Old 12-01-2016, 08:06   #9
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"Patching the ball"...... you are gonna need some mattress ticking and spit.
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Old 12-01-2016, 08:42   #10
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If you're headed for south-central PA hit me with a PM
If things go as planned and the planets are properly aligned, I will be in the Bedford PA / Cumberland Valley area. I'll let you know the timeline if I can lock things down.
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Old 12-01-2016, 12:39   #11
RichL025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PRB View Post
Billy, I shoot / have a few nice flintlocks and yes there is 'tech' to getting a good spark and ignition.
[IMG]http:s216.photobucket.com/user/prb51/media/IMG_1189_zpsd41faf0d.jpg.html][/URL][/IMG]

Look up some vids on flint knapping (if you make multiple shots) but I usually get about 20 rounds off before I have to trim a flint (still in the hammer) by chipping the tip.

This pic is proper placement...almost touching the Frizen at 1/2 cock...altho each action has it's own little quirks.

I suggest shooting quite a bit to work up loads/accuracy and get confidence in your ignition....once you get the feel ignition is close to 100%.

Feel free to msg me with anything.....this is all I shoot for fun anymore...I have 2 hand made pre revolution era .54's...just fun.
PRB,

May I ask where your rifle is from? I would love the idea of getting a flintlock, but as I look around it looks like I have a choice between Cabela's rifles (mass-produced, kinda cheap-looking) or hand-crafted reproductions (beautiful rifles, but $$$$)

I was just curious if there is a middle ground....

Thanks

RL
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Old 12-01-2016, 12:45   #12
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Originally Posted by RichL025 View Post
PRB,

May I ask where your rifle is from? I would love the idea of getting a flintlock, but as I look around it looks like I have a choice between Cabela's rifles (mass-produced, kinda cheap-looking) or hand-crafted reproductions (beautiful rifles, but $$$$)

I was just curious if there is a middle ground....

Thanks

RL
Both of mine were hand made by guys that do this for a living....but I bought both used with an inspection period. Look for a good, custom made/hand made, rifle.

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Index.aspx
http://www.claysmithguns.com/guns_on_hand.htm
places like this....but do your research as to makers etc and know who made the barrels (I like Colerain pipes)...and the locks....

BTW, I was also looking for early style rifles from the pre revolution (F&I period) thru the early Rev.....so went for a specific style period of makers as I like the history.....later 'Kentucky style rifles' look differently....the rifles in the movie 'Last of the Mohicans' are 'wrong' as with the curved comb stock and style are much later Kentucky rifles. Know what you want before you spend your dough.

Last edited by PRB; 12-01-2016 at 12:49.
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