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Old 04-15-2019, 06:20   #31
Box
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Its an Uberti Cattleman with a Birds-head grip. I only use it when I am shooting my "crossdraw" rig. I have a set of matching standard grip Ubertis but I have noticed that the standard grip tends to knock shotgun shells out of my slide when I am moving or drawing fast.
Quite a few times I have whipped out my left side pistol and the full size grip tends to pop the two closest shotgun shells out of their carrier. Being down two shells the way I shoot a coach gun is not a preferred TTP.
I spent so many years shooting a full size military style pump shotgun that I shoot high quite a bit with an old school coach gun. Since I am too pig headed to 'slow down' I tend to throw a few over the top. It took me 8 shots to knock down six targets during one stage this weekend.
Since switching to the birds head grip, I dont knock shells off my belt when I draw. Plus - it looks similar to one of the pistols that Doc Holiday carried in Tombstone. (an actual 'Thunderer' replica of the one in the movie was way too much for my cowboy budget)

I am having the same leather guy build me another rig in the same color that is set up as a gunfighter holster so I can shoot two pistols at once.
I figure with a gun in each hand - I can miss twice as fast !!!
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Last edited by Box; 04-15-2019 at 06:24.
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Old 04-15-2019, 14:55   #32
sfshooter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Box View Post
They are "authentic" leather holsters so they are not lined with metal or plastic inserts. The tennis ball keeps the mouth of the holsters open so it doesn't flatten out and take a set during storage.

Box, If you take a squirt bottle and wet the holster down, not sopping wet but wet, then wrap your pistol in seran wrap and put it in the holster. when the moisture has got down into the fibers of the leather you can press the holster around you pistol. Let air dry completely, remove pistol and re-oil holster (I use pure neatsfoot oil). Holster will hold its shape to the pistol (unless you store it with stuff sitting on it).

The seran wrap keeps your pistol from getting any of the moisture on it. This will work if your holster is made out of veg-tan leather. Oil tan leather usually will not retain a shape.

I've built a number of SASS rigs and period holsters over the years. Also modern holsters.

added: Don't press down hard where your leather is tooled or it might lose some of its sharpness. An alternate method to not mess any of the tooling up is to just spray the inside of the holster. I preferred to have the pistol available when I made a holster so it could be molded to it during the build process. Alleviates having to try and set the holster to a gun after it has been oiled. If it has been heavily oiled the above method my not work.
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Last edited by sfshooter; 04-15-2019 at 14:59.
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Old 04-16-2019, 12:45   #33
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I've though about trying to 'remold' the holsters a bit - but I am worries about a color change from getting the leather too wet.
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Old 04-17-2019, 02:32   #34
sfshooter
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Well, I guess that's a good point. From what I could tell from the picture I thought it was a pre-dyed, vegetable tanned leather. I can see that the edges are dyed black. If it is a dye job after the fact (tanning) then it can be some other things. If it is oil-dyed then you wouldn't really have an issue with color change after wetting. I don't know if you had this made from someone or it was an already built rig when ya bought it. If ya know the maker ask him about what kind of leather he made it out of and if he dyed it himself, and if so, what type of dye did he use.
I have molded pre-made holsters for guys with a guess on what it was dyed with before. I have gotten lucky and did not have any color runs! In my earlier days I wet a project down that I had already dyed and ran color everywhere kinda where I started using oil dyes.
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